How to Train Ornamental Trees for Beauty and Health

Ornamental trees are the jewels of any landscape, adding structure, beauty, and visual interest throughout the year. But simply planting a tree isn’t enough. To truly unlock their potential and ensure they thrive for generations, training is essential. Training isn’t just about aesthetics; it’s about guiding growth, promoting health, and creating a tree that is both beautiful and resilient.

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Understanding the Principles of Ornamental Tree Training

Training ornamental trees is a long-term commitment, requiring patience, observation, and a basic understanding of tree biology. It’s about more than just snipping off branches; it’s about understanding how trees grow and responding proactively to their needs.

Why Train Ornamental Trees?

There are several compelling reasons to train ornamental trees:

Aesthetic Enhancement: Training allows you to shape the tree into a desired form, accentuating its natural beauty and creating a focal point in your landscape. This includes controlling the spread, creating specific shapes, and maximizing flowering or fruiting displays.
Structural Integrity: Proper training strengthens the tree’s structure, making it less susceptible to wind damage, snow load, and other environmental stressors. This involves removing weak or crossing branches and encouraging a strong central leader.
Improved Health: Training promotes air circulation and sunlight penetration within the canopy, reducing the risk of fungal diseases and pest infestations. Removing dead or diseased wood also prevents the spread of problems.
Safety: Removing low-hanging branches can improve visibility and prevent hazards for pedestrians and vehicles. Training can also minimize the risk of branches falling during storms.
Fruit Production (If Applicable): For ornamental trees that also bear fruit, training can enhance fruit production by promoting sunlight exposure and air circulation within the canopy.

The Right Time to Train

The best time to train most ornamental trees is during their dormant period, typically late winter or early spring before new growth begins. This allows the tree to focus its energy on healing pruning cuts and producing new growth in the desired direction. However, some light pruning can be done throughout the growing season to remove dead or damaged branches or to correct minor growth issues. Avoid heavy pruning during the fall, as it can stimulate new growth that may be vulnerable to winter damage.

Essential Tools for Tree Training

Having the right tools is crucial for effective and safe tree training. Here’s a list of essential tools:

Hand Pruners: For small branches (up to ½ inch in diameter). Look for bypass pruners, which make clean cuts without crushing the stem.
Loppers: For larger branches (up to 2 inches in diameter). Loppers provide more leverage than hand pruners.
Pruning Saw: For branches larger than 2 inches in diameter. Choose a saw with sharp, aggressive teeth for efficient cutting.
Pole Pruner: For reaching high branches without a ladder.
Gloves: To protect your hands from thorns and sap.
Safety Glasses: To protect your eyes from flying debris.
Ladder (If Necessary): Use a sturdy ladder designed for tree pruning.
Disinfectant: To clean your pruning tools between cuts and prevent the spread of disease. A solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water works well.

Techniques for Training Ornamental Trees

Training ornamental trees involves a range of techniques, each designed to achieve specific goals. The choice of technique depends on the tree’s species, age, and desired shape.

Initial Pruning After Planting

The first pruning after planting is crucial for establishing a strong foundation for the tree’s future growth. This involves:

Removing any broken, damaged, or diseased branches.
Selecting a strong central leader (the main stem of the tree). If the tree has multiple leaders, choose the strongest and most upright one and remove or shorten the others.
Removing any branches that are crossing or rubbing against each other.
Slightly shortening remaining branches to encourage branching and a fuller canopy.

Thinning Cuts

Thinning cuts involve removing entire branches back to their point of origin. This technique is used to:

Improve air circulation and sunlight penetration within the canopy.
Reduce the density of the canopy.
Remove crossing, rubbing, or weak branches.
Encourage growth in other areas of the tree.

Thinning cuts should be made just outside the branch collar (the swollen area where the branch joins the trunk). Avoid cutting flush with the trunk, as this can damage the tree’s vascular system.

Heading Cuts

Heading cuts involve shortening a branch back to a bud or side branch. This technique is used to:

Encourage branching and a denser canopy.
Control the size and shape of the tree.
Redirect growth in a specific direction.

Heading cuts should be made at a slight angle, just above a healthy bud that is pointing in the desired direction.

Structural Pruning

Structural pruning focuses on developing a strong, well-balanced framework for the tree. This involves:

Selecting and maintaining a strong central leader.
Spacing branches evenly around the trunk.
Ensuring that branches are well-attached to the trunk with wide crotch angles. Narrow crotch angles are more prone to breakage.
Removing any branches that are growing inward or downward.

Structural pruning is an ongoing process that should be done throughout the tree’s life.

Espalier

Espalier is a technique of training trees to grow flat against a wall or fence. This is a popular method for creating unique and artistic designs in small spaces. Espalier requires regular pruning and training to maintain the desired shape.

Topiary

Topiary involves shaping trees and shrubs into ornamental shapes, such as animals, geometric designs, or abstract forms. Topiary requires meticulous pruning and shaping to maintain the desired form.

Training Specific Types of Ornamental Trees

The specific training techniques that are appropriate will vary depending on the type of ornamental tree.

Deciduous Trees

Deciduous trees (trees that lose their leaves in the fall) are typically trained during their dormant period. The goal is to develop a strong central leader and well-spaced branches. Common deciduous ornamental trees include:

Maples (Acer): Maples benefit from regular thinning to improve air circulation and sunlight penetration.
Crabapples (Malus): Crabapples are often trained to have an open, spreading canopy.
Dogwoods (Cornus): Dogwoods are trained to maintain their natural shape and to remove any dead or diseased wood.
Japanese Maples (Acer palmatum): Japanese maples benefit from careful pruning to enhance their delicate branching structure.

Evergreen Trees

Evergreen trees (trees that retain their leaves year-round) are typically trained in the late winter or early spring. The goal is to maintain their natural shape and to remove any dead or damaged wood. Common evergreen ornamental trees include:

Pines (Pinus): Pines are often trained to have a pyramidal shape.
Spruces (Picea): Spruces are trained to maintain their dense, conical shape.
Firs (Abies): Firs are trained to have a symmetrical, pyramidal shape.
Arborvitae (Thuja): Arborvitae are trained to maintain their columnar or pyramidal shape.

Flowering Trees

Flowering trees benefit from pruning to promote flowering and to maintain their shape. Pruning should be done after flowering to avoid removing flower buds. Common flowering ornamental trees include:

Cherries (Prunus): Cherries are often trained to have an open, vase-shaped canopy.
Magnolias (Magnolia): Magnolias require minimal pruning, but any dead or damaged wood should be removed.
Lilacs (Syringa): Lilacs should be pruned after flowering to remove spent flower heads and to encourage new growth.
Redbuds (Cercis): Redbuds are trained to maintain their natural shape and to remove any dead or diseased wood.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Training ornamental trees requires skill and knowledge. Here are some common mistakes to avoid:

Over-Pruning: Removing too much foliage can weaken the tree and make it more susceptible to disease.
Topping: Cutting off the top of the tree is a destructive practice that can lead to a dense, unnatural canopy and weaken the tree’s structure.
Leaving Stubs: Cutting branches too far from the trunk or bud can leave stubs that are prone to decay.
Using Dull Tools: Dull tools can crush and tear branches, making them more susceptible to disease.
Pruning at the Wrong Time: Pruning at the wrong time of year can stress the tree and make it more vulnerable to pests and diseases.
Ignoring the Tree’s Natural Shape: Trying to force a tree into an unnatural shape can damage it and make it look unnatural.
Neglecting Young Trees: Training young trees is crucial for establishing a strong foundation for their future growth.
Failure to Disinfect Tools: Neglecting to disinfect tools can spread diseases from one tree to another.

Maintaining Your Trained Ornamental Tree

Once you have trained your ornamental tree, it’s important to maintain its shape and health with regular pruning and care.

Regularly inspect your tree for any signs of disease or pests.
Remove any dead, damaged, or diseased branches as soon as possible.
Fertilize your tree as needed, following the recommendations of a local arborist or nursery.
Water your tree regularly, especially during dry periods.
Mulch around the base of the tree to help retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Training ornamental trees is an ongoing process that requires patience, observation, and a basic understanding of tree biology. By following these guidelines, you can create beautiful and healthy trees that will enhance your landscape for years to come. Remember that consistent, thoughtful care is the key to long-term success.

What is the best time of year to prune ornamental trees?

The best time to prune most ornamental trees is during their dormant season, typically late winter or early spring before new growth begins. This allows you to clearly see the tree’s structure and identify any dead, diseased, or damaged branches. Pruning during dormancy also minimizes stress on the tree, as it’s not actively growing and can focus its energy on healing after pruning.

However, there are exceptions. Spring-flowering trees, like dogwoods and redbuds, should be pruned immediately after they finish blooming. This ensures you don’t remove the flower buds for the following year. It’s also generally acceptable to remove dead, diseased, or damaged branches at any time of the year, regardless of the season, to maintain the tree’s health and appearance.

How much should I prune an ornamental tree at one time?

A general rule of thumb is to avoid removing more than 25% of the tree’s canopy in a single pruning session. Over-pruning can stress the tree, weaken its structure, and make it more susceptible to pests and diseases. Drastic pruning can also stimulate excessive growth of water sprouts, which are weak and unsightly shoots that detract from the tree’s natural form.

For older or neglected trees, it might be necessary to perform more extensive pruning. In such cases, it’s best to break up the pruning over several years, gradually removing unwanted branches and reshaping the tree. This allows the tree to adapt and recover between pruning sessions, minimizing stress and promoting long-term health and vigor.

What are the essential tools for pruning ornamental trees?

Having the right tools is crucial for making clean cuts and avoiding damage to your ornamental trees. Essential tools include hand pruners for branches up to ¾ inch in diameter, loppers for branches up to 2 inches in diameter, and a pruning saw for larger branches. A pole pruner can be helpful for reaching higher branches without needing a ladder.

Always ensure your tools are sharp and clean. Dull tools can tear bark and leave ragged cuts, which are more susceptible to infection. Clean your tools with rubbing alcohol or a bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) before and after each use to prevent the spread of diseases between trees. Proper tool maintenance extends their lifespan and contributes to the health of your trees.

How do I train a young ornamental tree to develop a strong structure?

Training young trees is essential for developing a strong and aesthetically pleasing structure. Start by identifying and removing any competing leaders, which are multiple stems vying for dominance. Choose the strongest and most upright stem to be the main leader and prune away any others that are crossing or rubbing against it. This encourages the tree to develop a central trunk and a well-balanced crown.

Next, select the permanent scaffold branches, which will form the framework of the tree. These should be evenly spaced around the trunk and have wide crotch angles (the angle between the branch and the trunk). Prune away any branches that are growing inward, downward, or are too close together. Regular training during the first few years of a tree’s life will significantly impact its long-term health and appearance.

What is the difference between thinning and heading cuts?

Thinning cuts remove entire branches back to a lateral branch or the main trunk. This type of cut reduces the density of the canopy without stimulating excessive new growth near the cut. Thinning cuts allow more light and air to penetrate the tree, improving its overall health and reducing the risk of disease.

Heading cuts, on the other hand, shorten a branch by cutting it back to a bud or a smaller lateral branch. Heading cuts stimulate new growth near the cut, resulting in a denser and bushier appearance. While heading cuts can be useful for shaping a tree or controlling its size, they should be used sparingly, as they can lead to the development of weak branch unions and an unnatural form.

How do I prune a tree that has been damaged by a storm?

After a storm, carefully assess the damage to your ornamental trees. Remove any broken or hanging branches immediately, making clean cuts back to a healthy lateral branch or the main trunk. Avoid leaving stubs, as these can become entry points for pests and diseases. Focus on removing damaged wood first to protect the rest of the tree.

Once you’ve removed the immediate damage, take a step back and evaluate the tree’s overall structure. If large sections of the canopy are missing, you may need to prune the remaining branches to balance the tree and prevent it from becoming lopsided. If the damage is severe, consider consulting with a certified arborist who can assess the tree’s long-term viability and recommend the best course of action.

How do I identify and prune diseased branches on an ornamental tree?

Identifying diseased branches is crucial for preventing the spread of disease to the rest of the tree. Look for signs of infection, such as discolored leaves, cankers (sunken or swollen areas on the bark), unusual growths, or wilting. If you suspect a branch is diseased, carefully inspect it for any other signs of fungal or bacterial infection.

Once you’ve identified a diseased branch, prune it back to healthy wood, making sure to disinfect your pruning tools between each cut to avoid spreading the disease. Dispose of the infected branches properly, either by burning them (where permitted) or by bagging them and sending them to a landfill. Avoid composting diseased branches, as this can spread the pathogens to other plants.